Thursday, 4 October 2007

Paris Fashion Week Spring - Summer 2008

More of it -

I really like Viktor & Rolf for their surreal artistic and concept driven collections. Although the dazzling theatricality the duo is expected of was toned down this time, the collection did not fall short of a "wow". The collection ran along the theme of Harlequin Romance. Opening with whites and monochromes to then slow injection of color. Stunning I tell you.

Lagerfeld collection was as you would expect, with a little more mystery adding to the unexpected sexiness of the ensembles. There were fifties dresses, sheers covering the arm, sleeveless billowy blouses, fitted jackets...and some almost jersey like fabric draped..One thing that will catch your attention is the sheerness of pieces and the thought of it seems so teasing to the skin.

I was just at the store the other day, looking at the Halloween costumes, and I commented on the pirate's costume, its so banal, ever since the Black Pearl floated into our mind's currents, the forgotten lot of pirates has been under the flashlight. But that won't stop me from going and watching the next Jack Sparrow movie (if it comes out) and similarly though the theme seems overused Jean Paul Gaultier went all the way with his collection - having fun I presume.

Tuesday, 2 October 2007

Paris Fashion Week Spring - Summer 2008

So now Paris is Fashion struck (Is there any time it isn't?). Well what I mean is, the shows have moved over to the fashion capital, and three days into the week, here's what has been offered so far.
Let's begin with ma première passion, Galliano for Dior. Forget for a moment you saw the grand Dior 60Th anniversary collection, even then, from the couture crazed master, what you would, I would, anybody would expect, is a magnanimous show, with enormous proportions skillfully tailored into extended designs, and lots of drama of course. That's Galliano. But there was a surprise element this time. The collection was actually down to earth, I am telling you. Call it the taming of l'enfant sauvage, but he really managed to present a stunning collection without the mad child element.

Okay let me not glorify him anymore, and discuss the collection instead. The theme was Sting's "Englishman in New York" which Galliano beautifully interpreted though old school glamour, revival of the twenties through forties styling, complete with pinstripe pantsuits and cabaret styled lingerie dressing. There was shimmer, there was shine, there was definite glamour; there was chiffon, charmeuse, beautiful draping, shoulder pads (ek!), sequins, lippy cat print, embroidered jackets, suspenders....too many elements, tied together to fit just right.

Yohji Yamamoto's collection would have better fit a fall/winter category - all black with some silver, and a little bright florals- is not what you want to see on a spring collection that is to follow a grey winter. I am not, by any means, saying he is not a genius. He ranks pretty high in my personal list of creative designers that are out there, But this collection didn't do much justice to his génie. The theme was overused, feminine cross masculine. And although the collection fell short of my expectations, I cannot, not praise the shaping, texture and proportions he showcased. There were lethargic jumpsuits and full bodied hoop skirts, with draped dresses flowing in between the gaps. There definitely were a few admirable pieces in there - admirable not for the we arability but for the construction and design.

I understand the whole "future is now" thing fashion has been gyrating towards. But even with that I have difficulty understanding Balenciaga's collection. Okay I confess, I did like the whole beetle armoured outfits at first, and a few prints were just fascinating. So I was expecting a whole morphing to take place to complete the collection. Instead, the bettles paraded, one after the other, in what seemed like the same design, in different prints and colors. And in the end they morphed into robotic figures (again the duplicates in various colors). My interest was hinged on the architectural structuring and the construction of the fabrics that are otherwise used to drape feminine curves.

Vivienne Westwood's collection is named 56 (after the number of days the British Labour government proposes to hold terror suspects in jail without trial), although I think, a better name for it would have been "from the curiosity closet onto the runway". What happens when the inspiration of a collection comes from various unrelated sources? It results in a clueless untied collection. But it indeed was an interesting and beautiful mess (as tagged by There was an array of colors, fabrics, patterns, and design elements; all loosely packed to resemble borrowed fairytale figures. It was crazy but fun, and c'mon that's what we expect of her, don't we?

Monday, 24 September 2007

Trend Report - Fall Winter 2007 - Sock it!

We all know Prada is the leader behind setting trends. Prada is the most copied brand, and hence the trends it resorts to, almost always trickles down to other brands and mass manufactured labels.

If you look at the Prada ad campaigns for this fall, you'll realise the leggings have died their timely death and made way for the new footless socks. My first reaction was "Yikes!". (the whole leg warmish socks with heels trends - what do you expect).

But it will grow on you, it has to, after all it is a "Now" trend, we will all put a sock on. (Remember how horrified we were of the 80's but then we did dress like circus jacks in oversized brights and graphic leggings - Right).

So be bold and try the look. They come in gorgeous colors from lilac to powder yellow, black to blue, and they are sure to add that punch you will be craving for, after putting on your grey dress.

Thursday, 20 September 2007

New York fashion week summary

Marc Jacob -

had a surprise in store for the world. Now you usually imagine MJ to come up with a sophisticated and glamorous collection, something cute appealing and clean cut. But he managed to break the stereotype with his spring collection and I was surprised (not sure if it was pleasant).

There was a lot of deconstruction, a lot of "sexy" (or supposedly ) "sexy' outfits, a lot of skin baring with slitted skirts and short tops and some crazy underwear cropping up through the outfits. I'm not sure of my reactions to the collection, but there were a couple of good pieces here and there, so well....
Narcisco Rodriguez -
Now there was a collection true to its designer. It was clean cut, structured and oh so flattering. (a non linear note to myself #A lot of sequins are showing up on the runway for spring, its shimmer time , well that it sure is)

Phillip Lim -
Nobody understands better what the modern girls are looking for, than Phillip Lim. The clothes are so happy, cool, chic, youthful, modern and pretty (with a lot of underlying funk). I like!!!
Zac Posen -
"Days of heaven, the shakers and the wheat fields of the great plains" - ah where do I begin. It was an interesting collection, although some outfits looked a little too literal (with the hay bundled together), but overall the collection flowed with a breezy ephemeral soft look. The dresses were gorgeous, romantic, ruffled...and artistic. Do have a look.

Doo Ri -
If you like the look of well cut, extremely well draped, feminine dresses, Check out Doo Ri's collection for Spring. A simple color palette, and few gorgeous pieces.

Spring 2008 Fashion Trends

So fashion week is over, and here I am talking about the next spring when the fall isn't even here yet. Ah! following fashion makes your year pass so quickly. No I'm not kidding you, it actually makes the seasons shrink, and weeks fly...time needs to slow the heck down, I can barely keep up.

Anyway, so back to the start, fashion week is over and the trends to follow are finally laid out. Let's categorize them, shall we?

The "IN's"

Soft muted colors, some punchy bold colors, floral and abstract patterns, ruffled and halter necklines, sequins, knee length pencil skirts, thin belts, feminine dressing - dresses, silk jerseys and chiffon, light sheer flowy dresses and gowns, out of the box lingerie dressing, paper bag pants and skirts, high waisted everything, head scarves, metallics, clutches, Eco friendly clothes.

The "Out's"

Baby doll dresses, tunics+leggings, raffia shoes, short skirts, dark colors, loud geometric prints, Ruching, peasant skirts, jersey knits.

Tuesday, 4 September 2007

Requiem For A Dream

Couture seems to be obsessed with ruffles, frills and flounce. Is there anything as 'enough fantasy'? I say, no, dream on -


Its that time again. Shows and dissections to see what the world will be sporting in spring/summer '08. The New York fashion week started yesterday, and in case you are thinking three seasons ahead (yes the thermostat reads its still summer), it's advisable you avoid any more fall purchases, till the trends to follow are in, so you can make smarter decisions and opt for clothes that will see you through more than a season. Here are the highlights from the collections featured so far -

Yes, it is still the dress. Dresses featured so far are loose, and flowy, feminine and frivolous. Dresses have been a strong trend past few fashion seasons, but with varying silhouettes. And from the opening shows, the upcoming silhouette seems to be a loose sheath.

Alexander Herchcovitch's stripped down tuxedo collection was sinfully charming.Dominant red and black numbers, and evolution of classic tuxedo into cocktail dresses was impressive. The collection showcased, double breasted coats, lapel necklines, white cuffs, suspenders, corsages and cummerbunds.

BCBG Max Azaria - I liked the collection (a lot) from a wearer's point of view, there were a lot of dresses that ranked high on wearability. And it was a nice deviation from all the looseness and brightness we seem to be happily embracing. It was all ethereal, flowy, muted, with little dabs of color (little I say). There were ivories, ash, lilacs, misty browns...and a lot of organza, tulle, voile, silk twill.

And then there was L.A.M.B. - a mod inspired collection, part sixties, part eighties - honestly, too much variety, from boyish styles, to glitter, to op art, to lace - from shorts and blazers, to swimsuits, to dresses, to skirts...A lot seemed to be happening, but all in all they were in step with being young and hip.

Marchesa showcased an evening's affair, inspired by the rich Indian gold embroidery, on draped silhouettes, lace and tulle dresses, gold appliques, bold saffrons and vibrant reds.

Nicole Miller's collection was almost like fashion was taking a much needed break from all the madness it has been up to lately. Timelessly cut pieces, a decent variety, gorgeous yellows, blacks, taupe, magenta and golds. Key looks were high waisted fitted pencil skirts, loose wide legged trousers and again flowly dresses.

Amongst others were, Mara Hoffman, showing off a colorful psychedelia of billowy draped dresses and graphic pantsuits. Grey Ant showcased structured waists, color blocked linens and asymmetrical tops. Y and Kei attempted to reinterpret peace, love and freedom, in chemise dresses with dramatic details.